This weekend I stepped into the surreal…
It’s been one month and two weeks, as write, since I began training here in San Vicente, El Salvador. Yet, until this past weekend I had not strayed too far from our training quarters, and only then in following scheduled training curriculum. Thus, I was unto this point spared the confusion of what I came to find on the shores of the department of La Libertad, in Playa El Tunco. Immediately breathtaking, this area of coastline is known for its stretches of black sanded beaches, imposing rock formations that pepper the shoreline, and the amazing surf.
On a regular day, I’m met regularly by Salvadorans in the village with used cloths, worn and tattered sandals or shoes, and either a machete strapped to the waist or a large and heavily laden bucket perched precariously, however deftly, upon the head. Once stepping onto the sand there was little of this to be seen, and one might feel as though they had traversed an alternate reality. Your classic surfer’s haven and tourist site, the beachfront is dominated by quant hostels and restaurants, surfboard and clothing stores, and of course bars and clubs. Quite the opposite of what I’ve become accustomed to. Imagine my surprise when, after being given a brief tour of the facilities of our hostel, I came upon a bathroom with porcelain toilet, sink with mirror, and shower! I certainly wasn’t expecting this.
Soon after situating our belongings in our rooms that evening we ventured out toward the coastline in eager anticipation of what lie in wait. Preceding the view, I was impressed by the warmth of air and slight breeze emanating from just beyond, producing the salty aroma one comes to expect with ocean beaches. Once there, with the sand at my toes, I could do little to contain the smile which had quickly and unconsciously spread across my face. I only noticed after a time just how much I was enjoying myself, being sure to take in my surroundings thoroughly. This is truly a beautiful country, one which demands owe and admiration to even the most experienced of travelers.
I was a bit disappointed the morning following when I found that the batteries for my camera had not charged properly before leaving the village. I dare say it was sacrilegious to have left without photos which might hint to the beauty to be found there. Perhaps this is as good a reason as any to be sure this first visit will not prove also to be the last. I did, however, enjoy myself thoroughly from early morning through the afternoon. Exerting my strength against that of the waves I found myself the loser, admitting defeat in the end; but not before having a time at attempting to surf the world famous breaks with a board rented and generously shared by a fellow volunteer.
I had planned to spend just a single night there before returning, and retrospectively was glad for having decided to do so. After just a short time away from my host family I began missing their food, their company, and felt guilty that I was able to travel and enjoy myself while they continued to toile with their regular day. Actually Peace Corps has a popular, (though unofficial I’m sure), term for this: site guilt. Though a bit silly if you really take the time to think about it, I was glad to find myself back with my host family that same evening, the trip being only an hour and a half by taxi. I would suggest, however, that anyone interested in travel here be sure to lend some time to the area. It would surely be time well spent.
A well needed break from the toils of learning a new language, I feel refresh and ready to start anew…
Tuesday, April 22, 2008
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6 comments:
Dude! As i switch between the Cubs and Sox while integrating a 2nd USB hub (and labeling all those wires, finally) I *then* read your post.
Realities--the world is full of different realities. Some sad, some painful, some boring, some thrilling, some good....
Whose better off? After Maslow's needs are met, I'm afraid you can be poor while rich and rich while poor....
In any case, I'm glad you got some time off. And I wish I were there! ;-)
And now for something completely different....
Do you know the book "The Spirit Catches You and You Fall Down" by Anne Fadiman? You *need* this book--all medical types need this *and* anyone who faces people Who Aren't Like Themselves.
If you don't know this book, please e-mail me a shipping address and I'll order / give it to you.
FYI: I have some news which might be indirectly bad for you (plural). Please hear the story at this URL: http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=90090647
The reduction in remittances from the US will adversely affect the economies of peoples / countries dependent on those monies....
Yes, I have read "the Spirit Catches You and You Fall Down." Great book. The NPR article you posted has been making really news waves here as well. Its been all through the newspapers. Remasas, (as they are called in espanol) account for some 17% of the total GNP here in EL Sal. Scarry what the effects will have on the people here. We're already seeing some of them.
On a some what lighter note, big day for us Demi's today, (I'm coining that term), with North Carolina and Indiana primaries... Lets hear it for Obama!!
Very good on all points. That is an amazing and important book: you're much better read than I would hope.... ;-) I should have known the remittances issue would be well covered there: Duh!
We've been enjoying your posts: say more! Gradma Jan is an avid listen-er as Kak prints them out and reads them to her. ;-)
Hey PCV-
Haven't heard from you in awhile. Hope all is well. Sorry if spelling is bad, toolazy to find my glasses. I know you are probably very busy and likely can't get to the internnet so often anymore. Hope you are learning a lot and enjoying life in a completely different environment. Talked to your bro and your mo on mum's day... all sound good.
You read the spirit catches you.... that was an amazing story. A friend gave it to me for Christmas 2 years ago. A must for jealth care providers. Well we miss you and wish we could visit. Take care and write when you have a chance.
Aunt Kak
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