Saturday, October 18, 2008

Med Visit

Coming to you from PC office in the capital, I have been out of site for med visits for the last week and a half. On the bright side of things, I have been enjoying the many frills of San Salvador consonant of life in the US: catching up on e-mails and blog entries, eating foods not seen for some time, movies, CNN, newspapers... Oh! and getting healthy. On the down side, I have been passing in and out of town over the last week and a half, and will continue to do so for another week while I recieve physical therapy. I have found the quiet and seculded life of the campo decidedly agreeable, and though equally satisfying to enjoy the spoils of life in the urban world anew, it has been an operose reverse (micro) culture shock to be afronted with the noise and bussle of the more efficient/productive civil sectors. Whats more, travel is something of a hassle here, in my situation cheifly for the sheer distance and amount of time required to get from place to place.

I had sustained minor and localized inflamation to the left hand from over-use when working with machetes, shovels, pick-axe, etc. which I of course ignored. I have had symptoms of what has been afectionately called the "trigger finger" where the tendons risit motion about the knukle until enough pressure is exerted at which point the finger snaps with a "trigger" like clicking motion. Its possible to manifest these symptoms both by extending or contracting the fingers. My experiences, however, have accompanied contractions exclusively, likely because of the nature of the causitive injury: extended exertion in crasping objects. Though not particularly uncomftable, the persistance of this alment I liken to what your legs feel the day following a long hike. A dull discomforture radiating about the area, tight as if beggin to be streched.

By any streche of the imagination, this is no more than a minor injury. It has been an incouraging experience, then, to see exactly what level of care a PCV can come to expect. One backed with government medical attention need waste little time worrying about poor or insufficient care. That which I have been subject to, barring lower quality of the resources at hand, medicines or facilities in country, the staff and level of care are as near to that of the US one could hope to expect. Each doctor I have been to see, both general interist and physical therapist, seemed to me knowledgable and able. In fact each had spent four years in medical school in the states, and my physician had even interned in a US hospital. These doctors are by no means a reflection of the majority here in ES. Yet I have come to realize a more reserved veneration for the medical services of the third world, if only for specific and perhaps exclusive ssectors, as opposed to outright condiscention. I have had the opportunity to tour some of the national hospitals as well, and in spite of the less than disirous equipage and furnihings, the staff are likewise intellegent, passionate, and diligent individuals providing a level of care far and above what one might expect from mere appearance.

I expect to remain inacttive, with regards to heavy manual labor, for some time following the completion of PT while I allow time for all this to be sorted out. Furstrating as it may be, I will do my best to be reserved to more delicate ventures... if only for a while.

Thursday, August 7, 2008

Three months in...

I started this blog with the idea that I could share some fun experiences with family and friends, and the hopes that some of the information here contained could be of use to other aspiring volunteers. With this spirit in mind I will make an effort to cover some of the most interesting details over the past two months, as I have neglected this page for some time (sorry).

To be fare, it is rather difficult to make entries being as I live roughly an hour bus ride from internet and electricity. When I do make the trip and inevitably find myself in front of the computer screen updating myself with e-mails, international news and facebook, its difficult summoning the motivation to spend some time with blog entries. What’s more, I didn’t stray far from my site for the first month and was for all intensive purposes out of touch with the world.

Cell phone service in site is patchy and causes dropped or missed calls if I am not at the signal “hotspots.” Buses only pass twice early in the morning on there way down the mountain toward town and twice in mid-afternoon, which involves a 40 minute hike to get to. This tends to create hassles when traveling great distances; one could spend a good portion of their day waiting for or riding in buses, pick-ups and trucks. Days with a ride from friends or hitch-hiking, although difficult and rather unsuccessful, can easily cut travel time in half.

My community is quaintly situated in a shallow valley, teaming with pine forests and tributaries, or cebradas, which drain to a single main river that effectively splits the caseria in half. After completing a health and population census, I can tell you that we are numbered 170 inhabitants and 29 houses, for an average 7.8 persons per home. These houses, mind you, are no larger than 500 ft2. The community has three roughly equal parts, which I like to call northern river left, right and southern river. River right and south have 8 houses each, while river left accounts for the remaining 13 houses and for all intensive purposes is the town center.

The health and sanitary status, though not extreme, is left lacking in many areas, particularly in personal hygiene, fecal waste disposal and consolidation, and air quality.

Dental health is dismal. The main form of treatment is a single examination and cleaning once a year, [the term ”cleaning” used loosely here as it means a lightly soaked cotton swab with a fluoride gel]. More common, however is for tooth’s to be pulled out all together. [This will be a lengthy digression I realize, but I feel I must. I have become so infuriated with the state of dental health and cultural norms concerning it. Children don’t brush there teeth regularly, if at all through combination of laziness and lack of proper utensils. Parents further this by claiming they don’t have the money to pay for a tooth brush (25¢), tooth paste ($1.25-2.00) or simply reinforce this behavior by marching into dental offices or brigades and saying “my child’s tooth hurts, will you pull it out.” Notice no question mark, because though formatted as a question, it is a demand. Fortunately this seems true only for molars and perhaps premolars, while the canines and incisors are saved from outright execution by way of aesthetic reasoning… you only see the front teeth]. Hand washing is fair, though lacking; showering is made difficult by weather, particularly during the rainy season; clean mouths and noses can sometimes be neglected; nose picking is somewhat common and covering mouths when coughing is a foreign idea.

Until the last five years, the community was without any form of waste disposal until local government finally stepped in, providing funds for the construction of pit latrines. Great right? Well, not exactly. In favor of pit latrines for simplicity of construction and lower cost, officials lacked foresight in considering possible problems. Hence, we now have more than 50% of houses using pit latrines inundated with water from high water tables during the rainy season. This, in turn, contaminates the water supply for those in the southern river section which is still without potable water lines and draws its water supply from springs, as well as all other communities downstream and its effects with environmental degradation.

All homes use highly inefficient wood burning stoves which are indoors, all but one without chimneys. The smoke produced is considerable while cooking and poses a number of health hazards. Among common ailments in the community are sinus and lung infection which could be dramatically reduced with the implementation of clean burning fuels or at the very least, more efficient stoves with proper ventilation hardware.

The challenges are many, unfortunately, but that’s what we’re here for! Projects I’m currently involved with are as follows: 1. formation of women’s committee 2. leadership and organization training for ADESCO, (local legislative board) 3. stove improvement 4. medical brigades 5. world map mural for local school 6. home gardening. Also planned for the future are potable water lines to those homes still without sanitary h20 and composting latrines. I’ll be sure to give more updates as these and future projects progress.

Thursday, May 22, 2008

In Site

An update to all the ardent listener (of which I´m sure there are at least two) and appoligizes for the latent entries. Being that I have been without electricity for the past few weeks, I hope you´ll understand. I have been assigned to the same site I had visited for immersion day some month or so removed, [For those who may not have read previous entries or have forgotten its description refer to entry dated Apr 6, title: Immersed], and arrived in site Friday, May 9th. It´s been a relaxed two weeks hiking around the community, getting to know the people, odd jobs here and there, and of course, working on my Spanish.

My mornings generally start around around 5am, breakfast at 5:30-6. I usually like to sit down to a book after breakfast, usually spanish books, until 9 or 10, sometimes through lunch at 11:30 on the days without planned activities. After noon, with said fresh meal in stomach and the climbing heat of miday, its usually too uncomfortable to sit and read anylonger. I tend to get very sleepy in afternoons and thus find other things to occupy my time. For instance, before leaving training I bought a machete and like to use afternoons practicing with it. Actually I´m creating a stock pile of tree branches for a fence I plan to build, needed to protect a graden (also planned) from being eatten by local livestock, [to be covered in future entries].

On days where I have activites planned, either with my counterparts, meetings or work with people in the community, or meetings/errands outside the community, like today, stem from the slower days schedule after breakfast. I have had some wonderful opportunities thus far to work with the national health care agency, Fosalud, which has two public health nurses which come to the community for various health promotional activities. One of these Fosalud employees is a counterpart of mine, someone to guide me through the first few months here at site and to be one of my major contacts/collaborators with future work here.

Last week I accompanied My counterpart, two doctors, one nurse and secratary to a naboring village as part of a medical briggade. Once there, medical consults were given to the community for about six hours and consequent medications given. The entire operation was really rather simple, but what makes the whole thing special is that Fosalud makes these "brigada medical" trips every Tuesday to four differnt communities, all of which are in very scluded areas with no other means of medical attention. Each of the four communities are rotated such that each is visited once a month. I was extatic when they aksed if I would like to come along on future trips.

Typically lunch is served around 11:30-12pm, though that can strech as far into the afternoon as 2 depending on how bussy you might be. I am often times away from my host home during lunchtime and therfore find myself being fed at other houses in the community, (something very common here as a general show of hospitality). Actually, on such occations I have been know to come away with as many as two or three lunches a day!

Finally, after long days of study and/or work I will inevitably find myself at the dinner table on or after 6pm, generally in the dark, with the soul light source coming from a wood fire stove in the corner of the barn where all meals are served. This lends to a wonderful abiance while eatting or simply sitting and talking with the family. I have promised myself to get a few pictures during this part of the day as it strikes me as something so pretty to see, something to look forward to in the next entry (I hope).

Tuesday, April 22, 2008

The Surreal

This weekend I stepped into the surreal…

It’s been one month and two weeks, as write, since I began training here in San Vicente, El Salvador. Yet, until this past weekend I had not strayed too far from our training quarters, and only then in following scheduled training curriculum. Thus, I was unto this point spared the confusion of what I came to find on the shores of the department of La Libertad, in Playa El Tunco. Immediately breathtaking, this area of coastline is known for its stretches of black sanded beaches, imposing rock formations that pepper the shoreline, and the amazing surf.
On a regular day, I’m met regularly by Salvadorans in the village with used cloths, worn and tattered sandals or shoes, and either a machete strapped to the waist or a large and heavily laden bucket perched precariously, however deftly, upon the head. Once stepping onto the sand there was little of this to be seen, and one might feel as though they had traversed an alternate reality. Your classic surfer’s haven and tourist site, the beachfront is dominated by quant hostels and restaurants, surfboard and clothing stores, and of course bars and clubs. Quite the opposite of what I’ve become accustomed to. Imagine my surprise when, after being given a brief tour of the facilities of our hostel, I came upon a bathroom with porcelain toilet, sink with mirror, and shower! I certainly wasn’t expecting this.
Soon after situating our belongings in our rooms that evening we ventured out toward the coastline in eager anticipation of what lie in wait. Preceding the view, I was impressed by the warmth of air and slight breeze emanating from just beyond, producing the salty aroma one comes to expect with ocean beaches. Once there, with the sand at my toes, I could do little to contain the smile which had quickly and unconsciously spread across my face. I only noticed after a time just how much I was enjoying myself, being sure to take in my surroundings thoroughly. This is truly a beautiful country, one which demands owe and admiration to even the most experienced of travelers.
I was a bit disappointed the morning following when I found that the batteries for my camera had not charged properly before leaving the village. I dare say it was sacrilegious to have left without photos which might hint to the beauty to be found there. Perhaps this is as good a reason as any to be sure this first visit will not prove also to be the last. I did, however, enjoy myself thoroughly from early morning through the afternoon. Exerting my strength against that of the waves I found myself the loser, admitting defeat in the end; but not before having a time at attempting to surf the world famous breaks with a board rented and generously shared by a fellow volunteer.
I had planned to spend just a single night there before returning, and retrospectively was glad for having decided to do so. After just a short time away from my host family I began missing their food, their company, and felt guilty that I was able to travel and enjoy myself while they continued to toile with their regular day. Actually Peace Corps has a popular, (though unofficial I’m sure), term for this: site guilt. Though a bit silly if you really take the time to think about it, I was glad to find myself back with my host family that same evening, the trip being only an hour and a half by taxi. I would suggest, however, that anyone interested in travel here be sure to lend some time to the area. It would surely be time well spent.

A well needed break from the toils of learning a new language, I feel refresh and ready to start anew…

Tuesday, April 8, 2008

Immersed

I’ve just returned from an “immersion day” spanning three days, from Thursday through Saturday. In continuing our preparation for volunteer service this activity is intended to allow each trainee the chance to see what a site looks like and have the opportunity to rub shoulders with a current volunteer.

I was fortunate enough to have been assigned to the Department of Morazan, located in the Northeast of the country, high in the mountains which stand as the natural Honduran, Salvadoran boarder. Before arriving in country I had read a bit about the area during the war and was thus very excited to learn it would be my site visit. After hoping buses for roughly five hours I arrived at the assigned site, a relatively small village about two or three miles from the boarder. For the next two days I became the shadow of the humble volunteer who was generous enough to offer his time to take me around for the weekend and participate in his regular activities.

The area is amazing, much cooler than what I have gotten used to in training, as it is another two or three thousand feet higher in elevation. Surrounded by trees, predominately pine trees, the villager are employed almost exclusively by logging. As such, the area is dealing with the problems of deforestation. A lot of the volunteers work has been with efforts to increase awareness of the problems with deforestation and introducing alternate methods of income for families. The village is situated near a major tourist town although it’s well off the beaten path. Roughly twenty to thirty miles from the closest town, accessed by steep dirt roads, the village has been seeking national forestry protection for a considerable section of land in and around the community and preparing a campsite within as a tourist attraction for backpackers.

The volunteer that I was with for the weekend was great. Born and raised in Maine, it was likely no coincidence that he was place in this site. After living with a host family for the first eight months of service he began work on a log cabin. What’s more, he has taken the opportunity to use this cabin as a cheap model for what the community could put together for tourist facilities. Needless to say I was impressed and, as I’m sure one could guess, a bit excited and inspired to do the same. He was enduringly patient, having asked him questions which ran the gamut, and very informative, clearing up many curiosities and uncertainties. While at site I accompanied him to the local grade school to join in assisting the local health official in cleaning the heads of about fifteen kids of lice. We also had the opportunity to help out with physical examinations by recording the children’s weight, height, and conducting vision tests. The work was simple enough, though surprisingly fulfilling.

Overall the experience was completely unlike what I had expected, yet wonderful in its own right. The people of the community were disarmingly friendly and welcoming, the site was absolutely breathtaking and the volunteer very helpful in painting a picture of what to expect. The weekend had succeeded in making me all that more excited to finish with training and begin my volunteer service.

Wednesday, April 2, 2008

On Salvadoran Time


So what’s a day in the life like for a Peace Corps Trainee? I’ll try and give you a brief synopsis of my schedule for a normal day.

First of all, it starts early. My host family begins their day around anywhere from 4 to 5:30am. My mother and father are up at 4 and the other two men of the house, ages 19 and 27, get up soon after to go to the fields for work. The women of the house, raging in ages from 14-25, get up anywhere from 4:45-5:30 and begin basic house chores before getting ready to go to school or work.

I usually get up between 5:30-6 in the morning and walk roughly a sixteenth of a mile behind the house and through the sugar cane fields a small river where I take my morning baths. Once finished, I come back to the house, get a new change of clothes and prepare my things for the day’s classes. For example, Tuesdays we have classes in the center city and I will pack a backpack with the various things I’ll need there; while during the rest of the weekday classes are held at my house every morning from 8am-4:30 or 5pm, and I will simply bring the books, note cards and note books that I will use to the table set outside on our porch.

After having done this, I’ll sit down to a wonderfully prepared Salvadoran breakfast, usually consisting of some combination of scrambled eggs, beans, refried beans, torillas, pupusas, or fried platanos. The food here is absolutely delicious! I feel like I have a gourmet chef employed full time. These plates are invariably coupled with a refresco, or a freshly squeezed fruit drink which is usually spiced up with a little extra sugar added to the mix. The only real difficulty that I have experienced thus far with diet has been the high carb and fiber. I’m sure you can guess what that leads to…

On a typical day of class here at my house, we’ll begin with Spanish, lasting until the afternoon when we break for an hour and fifteen minutes for lunch. Following lunch we involve ourselves in various community project and development activities. Yesterday, for instance, we went to observe an English class being taught at our local village school with the intent of learning the cultural difference in teaching style, the structure for grade levels, class environment, etc. This will typically round out the day at quarter to 5pm.

After class, I will often hike a steep trail just behind my house with a couple of fellow trainees that live with me in the village, which usually takes about an hour. At six dark begins to fall, and dinner is typically served around 6:30pm. Dinner or the time there after is when I have the most time with my family and with whom I spend the bulk of it speaking Spanish. This is the period of the day when everything learned earlier in the day can be reviewed and practiced. I also tend to use this time before bed to complete any home work assigned, though I have also found considerable time to sit and study before class in the morning, usually finishing breakfast around quarter to 7am.

Bedtime is around 9pm, and though it is still quite warm in the evening hours, the temperature cools considerably as the night progresses, making a thin blanket all that is necessary for the night. Thus the days go by quickly, full of various lessons and activities.

Tuesday, March 18, 2008

This evening at the dinner table I had my first breakthrough with my family. I had arrived home later than usual, walking up the path toward my home just after six in the evening as the sun had neared the end of its cycle for the day. When I stepped onto the porch I notice Don Mario, my father, working on the left front corner of the house. He has recently completed this extension of the original structure and was coating the fresh cinderblock bricks with a coat of plaster as a primer before applying the purple paint to match the rest of the home.
I offered my help as soon as I realized this and he put me straight to work until I had completed what was left of the wall. The work was quick, only taking me thirty minutes or so, though I somehow managed to get myself considerably dirty, what with all the plaster dripping onto me from the untrained hand which held the brush.
After finishing, Don Mario invited me to join him for dinner where Doña Irene had waiting for me a bowl of cold black beans, to which she added a large lump of cheese, I’m not sure what kind, and lying in wait a ready supply of tortillas. The dish was fantastic and I ate heartily, making sure to limit myself to just two tortillas; (The night before I had been remise in curbing large appetite and ate four). Along with that she provided a refresco allayan, a drink prepared from freshly squeezed fruits, though I haven’t found what an allayan is just yet.
Once finished, my parents and I began talking lightly about the day’s events and the like, things which I felt they might be focusing on to help me along with my Spanish. I took the opportunity to use some of the new words and phrases which I had gathered throughout the day. Yet, from all this regular conversation we came to talk about the sad history of El Salvador, US involvement, and general American culture and sociology. During the conversation Marios mother, niece and any of a number of their children, of which there are seven, sat or stood to listen.
Their niece, which I have already grown to like very much came towards the end and remained throughout the duration. Though she is quite young, seventeen, she seems very interested in learning and thus we spent the duration of the evening teaching each other Spanish and English, along with el Don Mario y Doña Irene. Though I felt comfortable and enjoyed the evening previous, tonight was simply special. Though I’m still very limited in what I’m able to say, they are as helpful and patient with me as to remove all anxiety over my ineptitudes. In particular, they are sure to correct me often, which I’m sure will help me a long way toward speaking fluently.
Already these people have found a place in my heart. I can only hope that I have begun to forge a place in theirs. I have found myself stricken with the beauty and simplicity of this life of los campesinos, the farmers. I’m learning much already and look to the future, eager with anticipation.

Monday, January 28, 2008

First Entry

This evening brings to an end my first full day in El Salvador. I have now moved in with my host family in the “canto,” or village, of Molineros situated just west of the city San Vicente. The village is quite interesting. With nearly 200 homes most neighbors are family who have lived here all there lives, and as they grow older and their families expand, depend on each other for their living. Its funny really, I have spent literally a lifetime studying about such people, yet I had never met any before nor seen the way they live.
It is rustic to say the least. However, there is running water and electricity, though both are limited. There is one main water faucet which provides for all the families needs. This faucet is out on the patio, just to one side of the front entrance of the home with a large rectangular cement basin and two smaller and more shallow basins which cover either side of the lager one. This effectively separates the larger basin into thirds, the middle open to the faucet above it. With this basin the family uses it for all cleaning: dishes, clothes, and anything else that might need attention. The two smaller basins are used for the collection and first rinsing of the items to be cleaned in the right, and a final rinse in the left.
The kitchen is housed in a separate building from the home itself, composed of three walls in rectangular shape with the fourth exposed and facing the house. Within it are a refrigerator on the left and stone stove with an iron cooking skillet for the preparation of the food, tortillas in particular, on the right. There are also shelves with an assortment of grains, vegetables, fruits and canned goods at the back wall and in the left rear corner. Taking up only a small section to the left of the room is a small table with one side against the wall and can comfortably seat four.
For a bathroom there is a latrine to the left and near the rear of the house, which has been kept in good condition. Just before the latrine is the washroom, also with three walls though tight enough to allow only one person in at a time, perhaps two. At the foot of the entrance there is a large plastic bucket, complete with a red hose leading from the faucet to lend it water when needed, and to be used to wet and rinse you when bathing. When in use the fourth wall can be covered with a curtain suspended by a clothes line.
Finally there is a small room roughly ten by six, with a box spring and mattress against the far wall, a small table just inside and to the right corner of the door, and a plastic chair. In the corner and above the desk as a wooden pole with some plastic hangers which I have since used, and converted the entire area into my Salvadoran dresser. This room is just inside the main door of the house and to the right, passing through a common room, very much like a family-room, containing a few wooden chairs and a wooden love chair facing a TV screen situated in top of a narrow table. (I haven't been able to explore the rest of the house as I'm concerned about invaving the privacy of my family, but I'm sure to find out soon enough!)
All and all, I’m very happy with my living quarters and am quite fortunate to have a large and welcoming family here to help me along with my Spanish. This will be certain to provide quite and adventure! I now endeavor to live amongst them, a Salvadoran in kind…